Car dies then starts right backup code#

If your car is stalling when it’s cold or stalling intermittently, your fuel mixture might not be adequate. If your low fuel warning light is on, and it has been on for a while, this is probably the most likely cause.Ģ. The RPM's are much more steady at idle and slow speeds and the van hasn't stalled yet.

I will report back in a few days after I have driven it more, but my initial assessment is that it fixed the problem. It wasn't gummed up like a lot of people have said. The old IACV didn't look that bad, as you can see in the picture. There is no coolant leaking so I guess I got it. It was a little difficult keeping the gasket aligned on the new IACV while trying to tighten the screws. There was just enough slack in the tube to reconnect it to the new one. I couldn't get the hose lose from the old IACV so I had to cut it. But after removing the air intake and all of the connectors I was barely able to reach my hands in their and get the IACV screws removed. I tried everything including hitting it with a rubber mallet, it just wouldn't come lose. My initial plan was to just remove the entire throttle body, but after removing the four retaining bolts, I could not get the TB removed. I have big hands and there was no way I could get underneath the throttle body to remove the two little screws holding the IACV in place without removing all of the tubing and wiring. It took me about three hours to replace it and it was much harder than I anticipated. The new IACV and gasket, and a new Throttle Body gasket with shipping was about $140.00. If you are going to attempt it and have any specific questions, please let me know. As the harness plugs into the back of the fuse box, you have to do it blind. The hardest part is unplugging the old harness and plugging in the new harness to the fuse box. The page also has the Honda TSB with Honda's replacement instructions. Look about half way down the page for the replacement section. I was going to write out the entire procedure for replacing your switch, but this site has pretty good instructions: Apparently it was not specific enough and required much more time and $$$ to diagnose.

Car dies then starts right backup code#

Honda couldn't diagnose it since the CEL was due to a code indicating irregular voltage at a sensor. The stall was very abrupt.no other warning. As I mentioned in my thread, I would usually get a check engine light moments before the stall. That said, my RPMs did not slowly drop before stalls. It just made me much more worried when it did I did have stalls while at very low rpm just driving around town. My problem did not just occur at highway speeds. I would really appreciate any suggestions or ideas. After thoroughly reading through this forum and other internet articles, it seems like the problem could be one of the following, although none of them seem to fit exactly: We did have the transmission replaced at around 40,000 miles. I don't feel safe with my wife driving my kids around now. After paying $110.00, we left and the problem occurred again on the way home. There were NO engine codes thrown, and they couldn't replicate the problem. I haven't noticed any other problems at all. We put the car in neutral and it starts right up with no problems. Always when slowing down for a stop, or when driving around 5mph with the foot off the gas. This has happened about a dozen times in two weeks. Problem with Engine Stalling at low speeds - 2002